You tell your kids that no matter what, you set your goals and you go for them. Whatever it is you achieve, never give up. You want your kids to have that good attitude, the confidence, and the will power to believe in themselves.Collection: Attitude
I figure there's no point in stressing about what's out of my control, and all I can do is make the best of what I've got.
I don't mind cold water. I mean, it's fine. Wetsuits will serve you these days; it doesn't really matter.
It definitely takes a fair bit of experience to know what's the right kind of wave and which is the wrong wave.
Anything can happen at Pipeline; it's one of those waves where the most amazing wave can come through in one minute, and then nothing can happen for an hour.
It's the way surfing is - you grow up surfing together, and then you're thrown into a heat at Pipe or a world title bout against one another.
I think we want to make the sport bigger and better and leave a good legacy for the next generation that comes through.
Losing one grounds you a bit. I learned a lot after losing the title in 2009, learned that I was probably too intense that year, and when I didn't win, I just felt horrible.
Having so many close calls in my career, it was such an awesome feeling to get that first world title.
I had plenty of invites and chances to party when I just started on tour, but I knew partying would prevent me from achieving my surfing potential.
As soon as I get bored, I start missing the kids, so I don't let myself get bored. I just go surfing.
You only need two waves in a heat, so I try and keep my surfs short and sweet and not too draining. Keep them intense and try and get the two best waves I can.
I used to be tense or nervous before heats. But I've learned to get rid of the negative stuff and just stay relaxed and positive - and it seems to be working for me.
As long as Im getting waves and having fun, the results tend to take care of themselves.Collection: Fun
It's true. Happiness is a big thing.Collection: True Happiness
Ive been on the tour for 12 years, and the big dream has always been to get a world title.Collection: Dream
I stay away from big chunks of carbs and try to keep it lean, even when Im competing.Collection: Trying
It's funny, 'cause you think surfing is your whole life, but then when you make a family it seems like it's not at all.Collection: Sports
As soon as I get bored, I start missing the kids, so I dont let myself get bored. I just go surfing.Collection: Kids